Don't be afraid to thin until you get the results you are after. Carl Berendsohn - So.. Step 3: Rinsing and drying the area. The paint shrinks more strongly in the sanding marks because of the higher film thickness Plus, the two top coats over the primer will generally mask any light scratch lines that were left in the primer finish. In my very earliest days of woodworking, I used to think that sanding through all the different grits of sandpaper was for anal-retentive chumps. The surface of the clear coat is flat. (scratch vs no paint left) Purchase a drywall sanding sponge (~$4.00 at any home improvement store), and use that for the final sanding pass. "The whole reason we use microfiber towels is because they don't scratch the paint!" That's both true and false. Personally, I think anything over 220 grit for normal furniture is overkill. You could just use a 2k filler primer just hit that area. Wet sanding can be as scary as using the rotary to some. If you properly primed and sanded your car a sealer is nothing but a waste of paint, money and orange peel period. Your enamel top coats are going to be harder finishes so powdering is significantly reduced and sanding scratches will show more easily. Dry sanding using DA. You could end up sanding through the surrounding paint by the time you get to the botom of the scratch. Next step of car paint scratch repair is rinsing away the dirt and debris left after sanding the scratched area. Causes The substrate was sanded with an abrasive that was too coarse. Now, typically, my advice is to go straight to method number 2 and just remove the finish and start all over again. Dunk the sponge in the water, and then wring it out to remove as much excess water as possible. Add filler where it needs it, sand with 80, then 180, then shoot the 2k. 3. I usually stop at 180 grit. Does a better job getting into the corners than a sanding pole. 1. As it turned out, I was the chump. even with a 36hr dry time it can still be soft underneath causing the 400 to dig deeper leaving excessive marks. Only a flat surface UNDER the basecoat will correct it. The scratch may not look like it's ALL the way through the paint, but that doesn't mean you won't sand through the paint trying to get rid of it! with 100 grit. It sands super quick. You could also try a light coat of primer, just enough to cover the surface, sand back and then apply a second coat with good coverage. Lean your head down so that light reflects off the surface of the wood. today we debunk the myths and shed the fear! Getting the Surface Smooth Prior to the painting process, you will have to work at getting all of the repaired body panels as smooth as is humanly possible. You can also get the Aerosol cans like spray max. Pay special attention to smoothing raised grain. Notice: Using dirty or old rags in this step is avoided as these could result in more scratches on your car surface. We do all our wet sanding with 500 and yet to use a sealer. This will buy me a few more years before the inevitable happens. Next you would use 180 grit and sand until you can no longer see any 150-grit size scratches. And so on, until you're satisfied. Not enough sanding. Sand horizontal on horizontal joints and vertical on vertical. If there's like a nick, if you cut through then, I would recommend priming over raw plastic. I'll see you later and maybe we'll just go live a little more. PS. If they are in the primer,SOL my friend. There you might use a circular motion. High quality paper is a must. If in the color,you might be able to color sand and buff or most likely reshoot it. Sand scratches. You using blocks? Should I add sanding with 220 and 320 before the 2k? May 31, 2005 Depends on IF the scratchs are in the primer or color. Check your progress as the stain begins to disappear, instructs Wood Database. You can also use a regular, fine grit, sanding sponge (not wet) to put the finishing touches. So if you see sand scratches, just make sure you're down to fine grit, about 2000 - 3000, on darker colors for 3000. Thank you guys for tuning in on my Youtube Live Stream. Jun 2, 2011 Skim with a filler, or spray a high build primer and sand it down. You will then repeat the process . If you need sealer to hide those sctraches, then you first need to invest in some finer grit paper not more paint. Much faster. Then a clean microfiber is needed to wipe the car surface. Never use less than 1200 grit sandpaper on a car's paint. Fine sandpaper. You don't have to go crazy, you don't have to use an epoxy primer. Lightly go back over any areas on your "flats" too to eliminate scratches you see. The first coat would raise the grain and let you knock down the fuzz before the second heavier coat goes on. Sand scratches would appear if you sand too soon, applied too much primer, painted too soon, wrong gun used, number of reasons. Using a light circular motion, buff the compound to a smooth finish. Scrape away any loose or raised particles, such as loose seam tape, from the patched area using a putty knife. Sorry brother to disagree but you can wet sand 800 all day long and clear over it with no scratches showing, i do it all the time. vermontpainter Registered Joined Dec 24, 2007 14,407 Posts Tap the area lightly with a flat-faced hammer to create a slight indention and. Remove The Finish First: This method involves you having to start all over again by removing the scratched-up finish. If the metal is showing through the paint, wet sanding the vehicle will not be appropriate. Maybe my memory is bad, but prepping seemed a little simpler back in the day. Microfiber towels. You can usually get a nice smooth finish on the primer coat from sanding properly. (Trout? The FEPA grading system measures abrasive materials at closer tolerances, so there are actually more FEPA abrasive grades, and the scale is tighter than CAMI. 9. Clear will only fill scratch's in itself basically. They are the result of not properly sanding the body or primer, filling in scratches with primer or sanding basecoat or single-stage finishes before you clear them. Fill a bucket with water. From contributor G: Use an inspection light properly and you can see all sanding marks plainly, even sanding marks you don't need to see and won't show. Let the paper do the work. If you ever use the Hookit system with just 1500 grit you will never go back. You can just as easily use 500- to 600-grit fine sandpaper to scuff shiny paint finishes. You can correct this problem by sanding the area with 1200-grit sandpaper and then polishing it. Working on my first paint job and must not have sanded well enough since sanding marks are showing through the color.What is the pro. It would take a lot of sanding with 220 paper to remove 120 scratches. Time to redo the whole car. I take it to 2500 grit. I would choose the high build method. Remove sanding marks and smooth the surface with 120 grit sandpaper or the fine side of the sponge. Sorry, more clear won't help the situation. These are streaks, lines or marks that appear in your paint film. "Nonsense," I thought, "I'll just use some 60 grit to get out the larger defects, and then some 220 to smooth things out.". Dust washes off easily. If you can still see a scratch, continue . Shiny areas on the wood's surface are called "mill glaze." Once the finish is removed, and you are down to the bare wood, you can apply a fresh coat of polyurethane. When I run in to a problem like this, I will go to 4000 grit and if possible use a DA sander. I suggest you buy a new sander Bosch, Fein, Festool or Metabo. What is safe to use by hand that is aggressive enough to remove the wet sanding scratches all the way? Do not push down hard. You should be able to start with 150 grit (Mirka, Klingspor, good 3M paper discs) on planed boards. Oct 12, 2006 Pick your battles wisely, and learn to live with the lesser of two evils! New Wood Smooth new wood with 120 grit paper and finish with 150 grit (or fine sponges.) Then use 200 or 220 grit and sand until the 180 grit scratches go away. I know what you're thinking. Always sand in the direction of the wood grain. It works very well, provided that the scratches aren't too deep. kodiak2314 wrote: The base coat hide the 800 scratches but it was a blend in the fender so I didn't want but half of it so everything I sanded that base didn't touch you can see my 800 grit sand marks. I will block the guide coat and shoot 1 or 2 more after allow that to dry and use a finer grit like 600. It is not necessary to have a five-step sanding process to eliminate scratches. The scratches you are see are 120 grit not 220. We only drop down to spot sand joints, etc. Wet sanding is the quickest and safest way to correct p. If you blocked it like you would filler in a cross pattern those scratches seem to show more so then just sanding in straight lines. On my crude monitor, the scales look very large. And make sure you buff it really well, to basically fuse all your sand scratches. If the paper isn't getting rid of the scratches, you need a courser paper then go to finer and finer paper as you continue with the wet-sanding process. Sanding marks Definition Sanding marks in the substrate show as lines in the surface of the refinish paint. Just because it blocked out looking fine doesnt mean it will remain looking fine Again, ensure that you scuff and sand in all directions to maximize the effectiveness of this process. For deeper scratches, you'll need to start with a 1200 or 1500 grit papers. 1. The scratches are under the color and show up due to light refraction caused by the surface difference of the base under the clear. The plan was to strip the paint, do any necessary body work, epoxy prime. A word of . Removing scratches in thin paint is a much more serious issue. The only place the grades are equal . A good high-speed orbital sander shouldn't leave sanding marks visible to stain even at 120 grit. Besure to use a soft block and soak the paper before sanding. Metallic and pearl paints show off sanding scratches very well.
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